The friendly cackles of the Vietnamese women in the open kitchen belie the utilitarian setup of World of Taste Seafood Deli and Vietnamese Food, a restaurant just north of St. James Park, right underneath the 4 train.

Bright, airy and straightforward (the shiny steel kitchen and closed buffet of daily lunch specials are immediately to the left), there are definite touches of love and whimsy: the bright fuchsia orchid on top of the buffet, the swordfish hanging on display on the back wall and the dark leafy plants in the front window soaking up plenty of sun.

In some Asian dishes, such as my beloved pho, a rice noodle soup, there is a do-it-yourself quality that is part of the pleasure of truly experiencing food. For instance, when ordering a bowl of pho, not only do you get a steaming bowl of glistening beef broth full of rice noodles and thin pancake slices of beef, but you also get another bowl brimming with additions: mung beans, lemon or lime slices, mint or basil, hot sauce and sweet sauce, as some examples. This provides you with enough ingredients to make the perfect soup, which of course is different every time.

Today’s soup was clear and infused with cilantro and green onions, almost a shame to alter it in any way. However, I forged ahead, adding the crunchy texture of mung beans, stripping the mint leaves and watching the leaves darken and bruise, thus releasing their flavor. A shot of Sriracha hot chili sauce turns the pho bright orange, which is balanced by the dark sweet paste, a plum sauce, that thickens the broth and holds all the flavors together.

At World of Taste, you know that the soup is homemade as the broth is slightly different, more peppery one day, more rich with beef the next. Not to mention, you have a clear view of the gigantic pots on the stove and the several cooks as they prepare, today, chicken stock!

As I continue to slurp the noodles and the broth, I can’t help but add more of the condiments, until I am stuck to my chair and the women regard me with twinkling eyes and that wicked laugh. One of them brings me some hot tea. I can’t wait to go back!

Ed. note: World of Taste Seafood Deli/Vietnamese Food is located at 2614 Jerome Ave., between East 193rd Street and Kingsbridge Road. Open 7 days a week, the number is (718) 584-5228. Bronx Eats is an occasional series of reviews of local restaurants and other culinary offerings.